Making Jeans - An Exercise in Much Patience

I had a pretty simple sewing goal for 2019 - make one pair of good fitting jeans. Not so simple for my figure.  Well I missed that goal.  I do have a wearable muslin now, but I am still on my quest to make a pair of good fitting jeans.

Stylearc Sandra Narrow Leg Jean (wearable muslin)

How I Did It

I will admit trying to make a pair of jeans terrifies me because I know it requires a lot of fitting adjustments.  One of Jalie's jeans pattern made Pattern Reivew's patterns of the year (forget which year) and I acutally tried that one first.  The fit was okay (with adjustments) but they just looked horrible on me so I tossed that pattern in the trash.

Muslin #1

That pattern confirmed my fear so I found other items to make and 2019 came and went.  A couple of months ago I decided I would face my fear and make a pair this time using Stylearcs' Sandra Narrow Leg Jean.

Stylearc's pattern seem to fit me fairly well, but I knew because they were jeans there would be more fitting adjustments required.  I was so excited I had finally mustard up the courage to make a pair of jeans I forgot to lower the front rise, raise the back rise, and barely remembered I needed to add 3/8" at the hip and hem.

When I tried them on during construction was when I realized I forgot about the front and back rise.  I went ahead and completed them and they actually fit better than I thought and with a longer top they would have been a wearable muslin also, but then I tried to fix them and made them tighter so I gave them away.

The curved waist was a whole other challenge. 

Muslin #1

Muslin #1

My Poor Attempt Trying to get Waistband to Fit my Waist muslin #1

Muslin #1

Muslin #2

This pair I chose to skip the hardware (except for the button).

• Fabric

I bought Cone Mills denim but will not use it until I am sure I have my adjustments worked out (or until I give up 😀).  I bought some 11 or 12 oz denim from my local fabric store.

• Pattern Adjustments

• I shortened the length 3"
• I added 1/2" at the hip and hem line.  On the next pair I think I may go back to 3/8" (what I added on muslin #1).  I saw some "extra" fabric at the front crotch that I did not have with the first pair.
• I lowered the front crotch 1" and raised the back crotch 1".  I read somewhere the way I was doing these adjustments was wrong, so I tried the way suggested at Designer Stitch website and have to admit I do like the new way much better and it don't take anymore time to do it the new way.
• The curved waistband is a beast.  I removed 2 3/4" from the inner curve of the waistband by slashing and overlapping.  I sewed on one layer of the waistband and tried the jeans on and the waistband fit really good.  After I completed the jeans and tried them on it appears the waistband stretch because it did not fit.  It was definitely better than muslin #1 but there was still a bit of gaping at the back.  I need to remove about another 1/2 " - 3/8" more on the next pair.  Also on the next pair I plan to interface the waistband hoping that will help with the stretching.
• I also did a wedgie in back that removed about 2" from the back waistline.  I went down about 6" for the wedgie.  My waistband in the back was about 1/2" below my waistline at  at the center back seam only.  I believe this happened because of the wedgie.  The other issue I had was a ripple at the center back, again I believe this is because of the wedgie.

• Some Construction /Finished Pictures

I did do top stitching but it is really hard to see because the top stitching thread I chose.

I used the muslin to cut my actual waistband

Ordered some sewing labels - my labels are a work in progress

Smile lines

Ripple at center back seam

Conclusion

I knew making a pair of good fitting jeans for me would be a challenge - and it is. Muslin #1 I don't really count because I did not make all the necessary adjustments.  Muslin #2 I am coming to terms with.  I really considered giving these away also, but I stopped myself.

I had to recognized I was being extremely hard on myself.  I tried on a pair of jeans I bought from the store some years ago had to remind myself that this was why I started my jeans journey - the store bought jeans don't fit right.

Even though my jeans have some fitting issues that I need to fix, they still fit much better than the store bought jeans.

I also have Cashmerette's Ames Jeans and definitely want to give them a go, but it will probably be after I finish with the Sandra jeans.

What's Next

I have a pencil skirt and swing top cut out that I want to get to.  Don't know if it will be too cold to wear but I will still sew them since they are already cut.

I really want to start on my coat but my sewing list just continues to get longer.