A Custom Fit Pattern That Does Not Fit

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I can't find the words to explain how I feel.  There were problems, costly problems with my sewing today.


  1. I ordered a custom fit pattern that does not fit.
  2. I ordered a custom fit pattern that does not look like the illustration (back view).
  3. I used this pattern on some really expensive fabric
  4. I did not do a muslin or any fit checks until it was too late.
  5. I did not lay out the pattern properly for the fabric design.
  6. I have a beautiful dress that does not fit.
It Doesn't Fit Me

Lekala Dress 4628

Pattern Pieces

How I Did It


The fabric was from my stash.  It was a super wax from Vlisco in the Netherlands and it was not cheap.  I bought this fabric 10 months ago and wanted to wait until I found the right pattern to showcase this beautiful fabric.

Before I laid out my dress I knew I wanted to pay special attention to the fabric so I could match the print at the seams.  I cut the front and made note of where I started on the design.  When I was trying to match up for the back of the dress was when I realized I had made a mistake and that I would not be able to match the print at the side seams.
 
It was then that I realized with this fabric print cutting on the fold would not work.  What I should have done was make a duplicate copy of the front and back so I could cut both the front and back without cutting on the fold.  This was a mistake I could live with.

I got over my mistake and started the construction process by stitching the front bust darts.

Front Darts
After pressing the darts up towards the neckline.  I stitched the shoulder and sides seams.

Shoulder Seams

Side Seams
After sewing one of the side seams I realized that I had not pinned the side seams first to check the fit.  It was a custom fit pattern so I had nothing to worry about WRONG.  I sewed the other side seam and tried the dress on and realized there was zero ease.  It looked as if I had bought the dress sometime ago and had gain weight and could no longer fit it properly.

This was also when I realized that it did not flare in the back like the illustration.  At this point my "sewing joy" turned to "sewing frustration".

I could have done some work to fix the fit at this point but for me that defeated the whole purpose of a custom fit pattern.  I could have added 2 side seam panels to give me the extra room I needed in the hip and butt area.  I chose to forgo the changes and complete the dress knowing it would not fit me properly.

I stitched the front and back neckline facings and pinned it to the dress.  I noticed another problem with pattern - the back neckline facing was too big.  No problem - I created a new back neckline facing by using the back dress pattern piece.

I stitched the facing to the neckline area, graded and understitched the collar, and pressed the facing to the inside. 

Back Neckline Facing I Created

Front and Back Neckline Facing
Front and Back Neckline Facing with Seam Grading
I added the armhole and hemline facings to the dress.  I graded and understitched these areas also (no pictures).

Next I added a 1 3/4 inch top stitching line using Sulky's 30wt Cotton Blendable thread.  I did not realized how hard it would be to keep a line straight on a curved seam - needless to say my top stitching is not a straight line.

Hem Top Stitching

Neckline Top Stitching

Sleeve Top Stitching.

And finally the completed, beautiful dress that I cannot wear unless I lose some weight (not happening).

Dress Front

Dress Back

Conclusion


There were plenty of errors today - some mine and some the pattern.  I have a cute dress that does not look like the pattern illustration made with some beautiful fabric that I cannot wear unless I lose weight or add some side panels.  Only time will tell what will happen to this dress.

I have emailed Lekala with the issues I have found with this dress pattern.  I am hoping they will fix the pattern, if not I know they must give me credit to get a new pattern.

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