A Wonderful Fitting Pair of Pants
To say this week has been challenging is an understatement. I have had a personal failure and started asking the Lord why (again) as I began to feel overly frustrated and overwhelmed. As I was driving the song"Sovereign" by Daryl Colely came on.
As I allowed the words to penetrate my mind and heart I had to ask the Lord for forgiveness (again) because I realized I was trusting in myself and my ability to handle life situations (again).
My God is so gracious and merciful. This week we had a lot of rain storms and for the first time I really saw the rainbow. It seemed so close and so brilliant. It's amazing I didn't have a wreck as I was driving because I was so focused on trying to see the rainbow.
Seeing that rainbow reminded me of God's promises to me and His ability to prepare me to spend an eternity in heaven. Roman 8:31 - 39 reminds me that I am more than a conqueror through Christ. Now I need to remember to walk in that truth.
When I am "in my feelings" it also affects my sewing. I started these pants early in March and didn't want to finish them because I felt they were not "perfect".
While still "in my feelings" I was angry at Lekala that these were supposed to be a custom fit pair of pants and I had to make a minor adjustment. Once I got out of my feelings and realized Lekala was not responsible for my body being overly disproportionate I laughed at myself.
Quite honestly if I had to make all the adjustments needed for a big4 pattern to fit me my pants still would not be finished because I would still be frustrated from not having finished all the adjustments. I have shied away from making pants for some time now because I get overwhelmed with all the adjustments I need to make.
Lekala has giving me sewing joy once again with this pattern. By the way, I don't get paid for promoting Lekala. I have found something that works for very well for me and I want to share their information with others with the hope that they will derive the same joy I get in having the pure pleasure of sewing without the headache and frustrations of making pattern adjustments.
Two pattern pieces - does it get any easier!
This pattern has a self encased waistband (turn down waistband). The instructions called for you to apply the interfacing to the waistband. The waistband included darts and I did not want the bulk of the interfacing in my darts since I was using really heavy interfacing. I broke up my interfacing so it was not applied to the dart areas.
This interfacing must have been in my stash well over a decade because it would not stay stuck to the fabric. I serged the top edge and that was the only thing that held it in place. In the trash this interfacing will go.
Next I put the darts in and I think they are pretty good - no dimples at the end yay.
The side seams and the inside leg seams were next. What's funny is I messed up and had to ripped the inside leg seams and do it over because instead of sewing the front to the back I sew the fronts and backs to each other. When I was doing it I knew it didn't look right but hey it had been awhile since I did pants.
Next was the zipper and I am very comfortable sewing in zippers but this one stumped me at first because I am used to having separate pieces for the lap and extension. Then I found a wonderful, simple, super easy lapped zipper video on Threads web site. Unfortunately they don't allow you to download it but I have it book marked in my browser.
I interfaced the zipper area to keep it from stretching while attaching the zipper and also to give it a
crisp clean edge when the fabric was folded to the inside. I also added a couple bartacks to hold everything in place. The fly for this zipper was about 1/2 inch narrower than the standard fly so I made the fly wider - making it the standard width.
Next came the belt loops. What was laughable is that Lekala tells you to cut four of them and 1 "button catch" but it doesn't give you a pattern piece or any dimensions. Luckily I have a serger workbook and a foot attachment that gave me all the information I needed to make them. I have no idea what a "button catch" is - I just ignored that one.
To make the belt loops I cut my fabric on the bias and then used the coverstitch on my serger to sew them.
Next I folded down the top edge to create the self faced waistband and this is when I noticed the issue. The back waistband had a considerable gap at the small of my back and it came about 1 inch lower than the front. This is when I got made at Lekala and then got over it once I came "out of my feelings".
My waist is higher in the back and slopes down about an 1inch towards the front. To deal with this issue I first created a wedgie in the back seam to fix the gap.
To deal with my "sloping" waist I turned down the back waistband 1 inch and graded out to 2 inches as I moved towards the front.
I had already sewn on the belt loops before turning down the facing and because I only turned down the back 1 inch instead of 2 inches the belt loops in the back were lower than the ones in the front. At this point I just removed them because I knew it would be rare for me to wear a belt with these pants.
Next I stitch in the ditch at the seams and darts to keep the waistband in place. In the pictures you can see the stitches because I took the picture close up but the stitches are actually invisible.
I added a hook and eye rather than a "button catch". My hand sewing is horrible that is why I do it as little as possible - I don't have the patience for it.
Last but not least I hemmed my pants and they were done and the fit was soooooo comfortable and perfect. I chose to hem them by using the blind stitch on my sewing machine. I avoid sewing by hand whenever possible. Oh how I love Lekala.
I also have pants that fit well 20 or 30 pounds ago. I can still wear them because they are knit but they are "high water willies".
As I get my new pants made I will remove the poor fitting ones from my closet and give them to charity.
I did make the adjustment to the back crotch on the pattern so that the next time I make them the waistband will be turned down 2 inches in both the front and back. I also noted on the pattern for the wedgie but it is not on this picture.
What's interesting is as I was taking pictures for this posting I couldn't figure out why my pants looked a little different on my left side where my hip started. It finally hit me that my left hip is now slightly bigger than my right hip - the joys of aging. I won't be making any adjustments for this - most people will never notice it and it is not worth worrying about it for me.
I have no idea what I am making next. Lekala keep coming out with new patterns that I want to sew so I am easily distracted.
Oh yeah - I forgot to suck my stomach in when I took these pictures - lol.
As I allowed the words to penetrate my mind and heart I had to ask the Lord for forgiveness (again) because I realized I was trusting in myself and my ability to handle life situations (again).
My God is so gracious and merciful. This week we had a lot of rain storms and for the first time I really saw the rainbow. It seemed so close and so brilliant. It's amazing I didn't have a wreck as I was driving because I was so focused on trying to see the rainbow.
Seeing that rainbow reminded me of God's promises to me and His ability to prepare me to spend an eternity in heaven. Roman 8:31 - 39 reminds me that I am more than a conqueror through Christ. Now I need to remember to walk in that truth.
When I am "in my feelings" it also affects my sewing. I started these pants early in March and didn't want to finish them because I felt they were not "perfect".
 |
| Lekala 5126 |
Quite honestly if I had to make all the adjustments needed for a big4 pattern to fit me my pants still would not be finished because I would still be frustrated from not having finished all the adjustments. I have shied away from making pants for some time now because I get overwhelmed with all the adjustments I need to make.
Lekala has giving me sewing joy once again with this pattern. By the way, I don't get paid for promoting Lekala. I have found something that works for very well for me and I want to share their information with others with the hope that they will derive the same joy I get in having the pure pleasure of sewing without the headache and frustrations of making pattern adjustments.
How I Did It
I cheated this time by not using fabric from my stash. Everything else came from my stash though. I bought some Crossroads Denim to use for this project. I must say this is the best denim I have ever used. It is so soft and drapable. They got a new color so I will be cheating again because I plan to buy me some in the new color (and some in old colors too).Two pattern pieces - does it get any easier!
 |
| Front and Back of Pants |
This interfacing must have been in my stash well over a decade because it would not stay stuck to the fabric. I serged the top edge and that was the only thing that held it in place. In the trash this interfacing will go.
Next I put the darts in and I think they are pretty good - no dimples at the end yay.
The side seams and the inside leg seams were next. What's funny is I messed up and had to ripped the inside leg seams and do it over because instead of sewing the front to the back I sew the fronts and backs to each other. When I was doing it I knew it didn't look right but hey it had been awhile since I did pants.
 |
| Side Seam |
Next was the zipper and I am very comfortable sewing in zippers but this one stumped me at first because I am used to having separate pieces for the lap and extension. Then I found a wonderful, simple, super easy lapped zipper video on Threads web site. Unfortunately they don't allow you to download it but I have it book marked in my browser.
I interfaced the zipper area to keep it from stretching while attaching the zipper and also to give it a
crisp clean edge when the fabric was folded to the inside. I also added a couple bartacks to hold everything in place. The fly for this zipper was about 1/2 inch narrower than the standard fly so I made the fly wider - making it the standard width.
Next came the belt loops. What was laughable is that Lekala tells you to cut four of them and 1 "button catch" but it doesn't give you a pattern piece or any dimensions. Luckily I have a serger workbook and a foot attachment that gave me all the information I needed to make them. I have no idea what a "button catch" is - I just ignored that one.
To make the belt loops I cut my fabric on the bias and then used the coverstitch on my serger to sew them.
Next I folded down the top edge to create the self faced waistband and this is when I noticed the issue. The back waistband had a considerable gap at the small of my back and it came about 1 inch lower than the front. This is when I got made at Lekala and then got over it once I came "out of my feelings".
My waist is higher in the back and slopes down about an 1inch towards the front. To deal with this issue I first created a wedgie in the back seam to fix the gap.
To deal with my "sloping" waist I turned down the back waistband 1 inch and graded out to 2 inches as I moved towards the front.
I had already sewn on the belt loops before turning down the facing and because I only turned down the back 1 inch instead of 2 inches the belt loops in the back were lower than the ones in the front. At this point I just removed them because I knew it would be rare for me to wear a belt with these pants.
Next I stitch in the ditch at the seams and darts to keep the waistband in place. In the pictures you can see the stitches because I took the picture close up but the stitches are actually invisible.
I added a hook and eye rather than a "button catch". My hand sewing is horrible that is why I do it as little as possible - I don't have the patience for it.
Last but not least I hemmed my pants and they were done and the fit was soooooo comfortable and perfect. I chose to hem them by using the blind stitch on my sewing machine. I avoid sewing by hand whenever possible. Oh how I love Lekala.
Conclusion
I now have a wonderful fitting pair of pants and I plan to make at least 3 or 4 more of this pattern. I have a number of pants that I have bought the just don't fit well - the crotch is too long and I am constantly pulling them up.I also have pants that fit well 20 or 30 pounds ago. I can still wear them because they are knit but they are "high water willies".
As I get my new pants made I will remove the poor fitting ones from my closet and give them to charity.
I did make the adjustment to the back crotch on the pattern so that the next time I make them the waistband will be turned down 2 inches in both the front and back. I also noted on the pattern for the wedgie but it is not on this picture.
What's interesting is as I was taking pictures for this posting I couldn't figure out why my pants looked a little different on my left side where my hip started. It finally hit me that my left hip is now slightly bigger than my right hip - the joys of aging. I won't be making any adjustments for this - most people will never notice it and it is not worth worrying about it for me.
I have no idea what I am making next. Lekala keep coming out with new patterns that I want to sew so I am easily distracted.
Oh yeah - I forgot to suck my stomach in when I took these pictures - lol.
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